Memoirs Of A Female Ashanti Weaver

Warp & Weft Calculations

2010-04-28T09:10:00.000-07:00

For those of you who do not know the back ground story behind this shawl, here are the Cliff Notes. I wanted to spin a random yarn to understand grist. I was then going to knit a shawl with the finished yarn. Well the experiment went horribly wrong and I did not have enough yarn to knit my shawl. I ended up with a yarn that had 28 WPI (693 YPP). To top it off I only had 8 ounces which gave me 346.5 yards.

This lead me to thinking. Since weave structures are linear, for the most part, could I weave the shawl using this yarn? I wanted a shawl that measured around 14" X 53". To knit one, I would need about 1022 yards. So, I began calculating warp & weft threads. I knew I would have to use another yarn for the warp but did I have enough handspun for the weft? I decided on tabby (plain weave) because I knew I needed to have a balanced weave structure to get more "bang for my buck." Not to mention the yarn is variegated and I wanted to show off the yarn. Here's how:

The Dream Shawl

A 14" X 53" plain weave at 20 epi at 20 ppi and no fringe.

I calculated how much warp I would need so I had to figure out the working length of my project.

To calculate warp:

project length + fringe + take-up (10% average) + shrinkage (10% average) + loom waste =Total Warp Length
53 + 0 + 5.3 + 5.83 + 36 (my loom leaves 1/2 yard (18") at front & back apron) = 100.13 Inches

Oh, I should say, use English or Metric calculations but don't mix them.

finished width + draw-in (1-2") + shrinkage (10%) = On Loom Width (OLW)
OLW x warp set (epi) = Warp Ends Needed
14 + 2 +1.6 + 20 (epi) = 352 Ends for my project

Now I convert my inches into yards:

total length (in inches) x warp ends needed = total warp (in inches)
total warp / 36 (36" in 1 yard) = total yards needed
100.13 x 352 = 35245.76
35245.76 / 36 = 979.05 yards needed for my project

With this information, I know I need to buy 980 yards of my warp yarn. This information is also useful because with these number, I can calculate my weft. This will tell me if I have enough handspun yarn.

To calculate your weft:

length of one weft shot in inches (width + 10%) x shots per inch (ppi) = inches needed to weave 1 inch of cloth
that number x inches in cloth (project length + shrinkage 5%) = weft needed for project
divide that number by 36 = yards needed.
15.4 x 20 = 308(105.13) = 32380.04 / 36 = 899 yards needed for my shawl.

Well, needless to say I could not get enough weft yarn out of the 8 ounces of handspun to complete the shawl of my dreams. I'm still going to weave a shawl out of this yarn. I just have to spin more yarn.

The Rebound Shawl

This shawl is 12" X 40" plain weave at 10 epi and 10 ppi, still no fringe.

I won't do the math again, since you have everything to calculate it yourself. But I will give you my answers:

Warp

total length: 80.4"
loom width: 15."
ends needed: 154
total warp: 12381.6" or 343.9 yards

Weft

length of one weft shot: 44"
ppi: 10
inches per inch: 440"
woven inches: 46.2"
total weft: 20328" or 564.66 yards

Even if I want to make the rebound shawl, I would need to spin another 5 ounces. To get enough yardage of weft. I hope this shows how difficult it is to spin now and match a project later. I could change the variables to make it work, but would I get the shawl I actually want? If you are going to spend the time making something, shouldn't it be something you really want? I had fun doing the math because I do love numbers!

COWG Kente Workshop

2010-03-03T16:34:00.000-08:00

This was really a big stretch for me considering how shy I am. It took me 3 months to work out the draft for our type of loom. Let me back up.

I spent the last 6 months working on a method to weave kente on our modern loom. The traditional kente loom used in Ghana has a lot more wiggle room than our floor looms. I worked out a draft that is really close to the traditional kente but I'm not quite there yet. The cloth looks almost identical to the cloth I wove in Ghana except for some very small differences. So I'm going to continue to work out the bugs.

I offered a two day workshop for the our local weaver's guild. I had 19 in attendance. I wasn't expecting that many. I taught my modified kente techniques for the Jack style loom. Many of the participants warped their looms with 20/2 cotton. Only 3 tried the traditional 120/2.

I will definately teach it again. My only regret is that I didn't take any picture. Some of the other guild members took picture so hopefully I can get copies for you to see. I forget about the whole picture taking thing. The purpose of me teaching the workshop was to get over my shyness. I think I'm on my way.

Kente Workshop

2010-01-12T08:28:00.000-08:00

Sorry it's been a while since I updated the blog. I wanted to share with you my adventures while I was learning to weave in Ghana. But since I've been back in the States, there has been so much happening in my Kente World that I'm having a difficult time back tracking. So what I have decided to do is to combine them. I will share both what's going on now and give you a little history about what happened in Ghana while I was learning.

For any weavers interested, I am teaching a workshop on Kente Weaving Feb. 20-21, 2010. If you want to take the workshop or would like to host one in your area, feel free to contact me.

Until we speak again, Blue Skies!

Adanwomase, Ghana, West Africa

2009-08-08T14:05:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Adanwomase late in the afternoon. I was excited to begin my studies. They insisted that I rest. I flew into Accra and had to take a bus (tro) to Kumasi. Once arriving in Kumasi I had to change buses and travel to Adanwomase. I loved it there it was a quiet town. Not much to do outside of weaving.

I should back up and tell you about my first trip there. I drove down from Cape Coast after visiting all of the Slave Castles and such. I was to begin my first set of lessons before returning to the States. The drive was nice I arrived in Adanwomase mid-afternoon. As I traveled on the pothole filled dirt road, I could only imagine what it would be like. I finally saw the sign that said "Adanwomase, Home Of The Royal Weavers." That's it I knew I was were I wanted to be. I drove to the Tourist Center which was an old concrete building with paint chipping. It inside was hot but they had a ceiling fan on. They were excited that I was interested in their craft. The inside of the building was painted a light blue. It had a saying written in Kente on the wall, "Support tourism not Aids." I was more fascinated by the fact you could write in Kente than reading the actual message. It took several visits to the Tourist Center for me to actually read the cloth.

I was met by two relatively short men, Eric and Osei. Eric was older than Osei. He had a weathered look about him, like he had the weight of the world on his shoulders. He was serious and precise, he was a man that got thing done. Osei was young, in his mid 20's. He was a handsome man with a youthful vigor and very respectful.

After greeting me, they explained the agenda and showed me to my room. I placed my luggage down and Osei gave me a tour of the town. The photo with the bed is the farthest right corner of my room. The other is the farthest left corner by the door. It was quaint to say the least. The room measured 10'x10'. It was big enough to sleep or write at the desk. I put my suitcase under the bed to conserve space. I also had a mosquito net just in case.

It felt like home. They went the extra mile to make it feel like home for me.

Kente Side Bar

2009-07-13T11:02:00.000-07:00

I warped my loom. I will attempt to weave beads into my kente cloth. It's not traditional Kente but I think I would like to do something a little different. I am still setting up the loom as I would for traditional cloth but I will add beads to the weft motifs. Wish me luck, I'm not sure how it will turn out. I will keep you posted.

Finally In Ghana

2009-06-29T09:28:00.000-07:00

Before I went to Adanwomase, I took time to get to know Ghana. I visited Cape Coast, which I absolutely love. It was a bustling town by the ocean. Everything was in walking distance from my hotel. When I say everything, I mean food and Internet connection. Catching a taxi was easy so, if I couldn't or didn't want to walk, I had other means of transportation. I enjoyed the walks. Seeing the people, the culture and everyday life. I went there with no expectations because I knew nothing about Africa, let alone, Ghana.

I took a bus from Accra, the capitol, to Cape Coast. I settled into my room and was excited. I was like a kid in a candy store. I did not realize all of art and crafts I enjoy are right here in Ghana. I saw fabric dyeing, bead making, basket weaving, woodcarving and, of course, weaving cloth. I was ready. But first, I'm going to see the sights.

A Great Flight

2009-06-22T08:06:00.000-07:00

I had a great flight. It was a 12 hour flight and I managed to get a lot of knitting done. I finished a pair of socks. I prefer 2 socks on 2 circular needles. I know me, if I don't do both of them at once, I'll move on to something else and not get them finished. I flew though the night so it would be day time when I arrived in Ghana.

As the pilot announced the decent into Accra, I began to feel a little sick to my stomach. I still did not have my VISA. Technically, they could ship me back back to the US and all my dreams would be shattered.

The airport was bigger than I expected. The plane landed and we exited outside. They herded us to a covered walkway. It reminded me of the plastic shelters seen at a state fair. The plastic held in the heat so it was steamy. It was like walking into a sauna. I quickly made my way to the building. Once you enter the building, there were 3 lines. One for residents, one for those who had VISAs and "VISAs on Arrival." I proceeded to the far left line, there were only 2 couples in front of me.

The security guard guided me to Room 3. I sat in this cramped, concrete walled room. It had one window that looked out onto the taxiway. I wondered, "what was I thinking?" Then I noticed the curtains were made of Kente Cloth. For some odd reason I felt comforted by its presence. After, the Immigrations Officer finished his call, he asked me why I was there. I told him to learn to weave Kente. He looked at me like I had two heads and granted me a VISA.

I rushed to the luggage claims area. I couldn't pick up my luggage until I had a VISA. I was afraid my luggage was not going to be there when I arrived. I pick up my luggage, grabbed one of the many taxis that were waiting and headed to my hotel.

I know you're getting tired of the ground work but, I thought it was necessary to share with you that this was not an easy trip. In order to become a Master Ashanti Weaver, I had to go back a second time. Have you every wanted something so bad you were "hell bent" on achieving it? If so, post a comment. Tell me what it was and how you overcame your obstacles. I think it will be inspiring for everyone!

On My Way To Ghana?

2009-06-08T08:37:00.000-07:00

Sorry it's taken me a while to post. I've been working on a podcast, it took longer than expected.

So, I receive my passport and I make it to the airport. I was still quite nervous because I still did not have a VISA. I wasn't sure if I would get stuck in the John F. Kennedy Airport. If I did, I would have to go to the Ghanaian Embassy to get a VISA. That would delay my trip by 2 or 3 days. I crossed my fingers and hopped on the plane to JFK.

It was do or die. After a 2 hour layover, they asked everyone to make a line for passport check. Was learning to weave Kente worth this? I get in line and wait. It was brutal. The ticket claims person checked each person's passport and would check for the VISA stamp. There's one person in front of me. The Checker opens her passport then asked her to read the date on her VISA. Oh, my God! My stomach was in knots.

Wait did I give you the background on this situation? Well, when I didn't receive my passport in time, I had a"friend" offer to get me a letter from someone who worked at the Ghanaian Embassy. This letter would be on Official Letterhead and would state I would get a VISA on arrival. I'd planned on getting one on arrival, anyway, if only I could get there. This person wanted to charge me $100 US to do this "favor." My friend kept egging me on to do this. I know she thought she was helping but I refused. I would suffer the consequences and do things the correct way. If I couldn't get on the flight, I was willing to stay in JFK to do the proper paperwork. So, here we are.

I had my photos for my "VISA On Arrival" and my Yellow Fever vaccination records in my passport. I just started randomly talking to the Checker. Stuff was falling out my passport. She bends over to help me pick up my pictures. We're still talking she flips to the VISA page of the passport. I dropped my water bottle, I think out of fear. She hands me my passport, picks up my water bottle and tells me to have a great flight. Now I'm not endorsing distracting the Checkers they have a job to do. I just think in all the commotion she though she saw a VISA and I wasn't telling her different.

I boarded the aircraft, a 747 if I remember correctly, settled in and waited for take off. I just had this fear the stewardess was going to call my name and remove me from the plane. We took off and I began to relax into my seat for 12 hours of knitting and/or sleeping.

What would happen when I get to Ghana. Will customs send me back because I didn't get my VISA ahead of time?

The Prep Work

2009-05-14T09:07:00.000-07:00

My first trip to Ghana was spontaneous. I did not have a lot of time to prepare for the journey. I gave myself 6 weeks to get all of my documents in order. That was an interesting turn of events.

"I went to the "Travel Clinic" to get my Yellow Fever inoculation. I was in a room with several people who would be traveling to some exotic part of the world. I was excited for my trip. I would live half way across the world in order to learn something I love, weaving. As I sit in the room gabbing about our travels my name was called. The nurse practitioner was full of information about traveling to a third world country. She handed me a brochure and began to prep the shot. It burned a little but nothing like the Hep A. They require you to sit there under observation for 20 minutes to make sure you're not going to have an adverse reaction. I didn't, at lease not within 20 minutes.

On my drive home I began to feel ill. My body was weak and I could barely hold my arms up to steer the car. By the time I got home, I had Yellow Fever. I had cold chills. I was running a fever and had cold sweats. There I was, in bed under several blankets shivering. Dare I eat? I didn't try it. I stayed positive thinking to myself better now then over there. By morning I was a little dehydrated but well.

Next came the passport. Is this an omen? I applied for my passport in plenty of time to get it back (so I thought). It was delayed. I had to prove my identity. This is what happens when you're too lazy to change your drivers licence to your new name. I was in a panic, I was scheduled leave in 1 week. I overnighted the docs to the Feds and said a little prayer. Is Kente Cloth worth all of this. I know how to weave. Of course it was, don't be silly.

I checked the passport website daily. Finally, I called. I was told it was overnighted and I was given a tracking number. It's at the Post Office. Immediately I drove to the Post Office. "Oh, it's at the Main Office. It will not be here until tomorrow. Apparently overnight is a 2 day process in a rural community. I explained to the clerk that I was leaving the next day and my passport is in the package. (Probably not a smart move I later thought) She said she would leave a note for the morning crew to pull it when it was scanned. She also gave me their direct phone number to the loading dock. She told me the morning crew got in at 4 am I left a little deflated. I'll just change my ticket, I thought. But inside I was bumbed.

I couldn't sleep all night. If my passport was not there, I would not be able to leave. I loaded my suitcases into the car. I had to be at the airport by 11 am, my flight left at 1:30 pm. I knew I had to do all the post 911 stuff. Plus, I forgot to mention that I did not have a VISA. Since I didn't get my passport in time, I couldn't apply for my VISA.

I called the Post Office at 4:30 am. They answered. I told him who I was, YES! they pulled it. I left the house around 5 am and went to the back door of the Post Office. After knocking on the steel door a pudgy man lets me in. I sign for my package and walked to the car. The moment my butt hit the seat, I ripped open the Overnight envelope. There it was the crisp, blue book I had longed to see. Up to this point everything had gone relatively smoothly. I even had time to stop for breakfast before going to the airport.

I wasn't out of water just yet. What will happen when I get to the airport without a VISA?

Weaving In Ghana, West Africa

2009-05-11T14:28:00.000-07:00

I went to Ghana, West Africa, to learn to weave their traditional cloth, Kente. I never had a desire to go to Africa, outside of Egypt, but the challenge of learning a new style of weaving really appealed to me. I had no preconceived notions of what it would be like or would I be accepted, I just wanted to weave. I had no desire to get in touch with my "African roots" or pretend to understand the culture. I was fascinated with their weaving structures.

I didn't speak the language nor did I know the cultural quirks, but I felt compelled to go. It was almost like I was being drawn to this cloth. So, I packed my bags and went to the village of Adanwomasi in Ghana to become an Ashanti Master Weaver. This village is in the Ashanti region. Although I was trained in both the Ewe and the Ashanti style of weaving. The Ashanti style Kente is what one thinks of a "Kente Cloth."

This endeavor would prove challenging. First, women don't weave, period. I would have to convince the tribe to allow me to learn ALL of the techniques in weaving this cloth. Trust me, this was no easy feat. Some men of the tribe that were not happy about me learning and the women were appalled, but more about that later. Plus, I had to cross the language barrier. Most people speak a "broken English" but, I had to learn enough Twi to do my day to day tasks. I was required to stay there for 3 months in order receive a certification and the title "Ashanti Master Weaver."

I hope to share with you the joys, trials and tribulations I experienced while receiving my certification. Hopefully I can inspire you to step out of your comfort zone and try something new.